Reaper with KV997 parts I’ve had to replace what I think caused it and what to get. 1. Starter - (I fitted a extra earth straight to starter) Fits Many Kawasaki 650 / 750 / 900 / 1100cc Engines OEM 21163-3712 Bendix- Yamaha superjet/ gp1200r / gp1300r The Yamaha bendix I used was a lot smoother throw than the stock one. I had the bolts holding the starter come loose and starter fell out. It’s worth checking starter is secure periodically. Because I started it with the starter half off I damaged starter spline and bendix. 2. Stator Plug at front of stator cover fell off and wires disconnected from plug connected to stator cover. There are 3 yellow wires and the positions in the plug can go anywhere. It is a Deutsch connection, YouTube how to disassemble and assemble. I removed stator cover reconnected wires and used apoxy glue to secure plug to stator cover. It seems to be good now without coming out since. Boat building epoxy glue whilst taking a day to go off is a must have. It holds its form similar to vasaleen and as long as parts are clean and prepared forms a very good bond. 3. Steering arm had movement up and down causing steering arm to drop far enough to damage carby shroud. I glued shroud back together with my best friend epoxy glue. But any sign of movement up and down should be rectified straight away. There are 4 Allen key bolts below bar clamps, loosen and whilst holding bars down tap steering arm up from the bottom until snug and retighten. 4. Just a general knowledge item. The primer button is exactly that, it’s function is to squirt fuel into the the Venturi of the carb’s. It isn’t like the bulb that helps prime the hose to a outboard, you are not pushing it till it gets hard. Push it a couple of times and start straight away whilst the fuel vapors are present. 5 I ended up putting a Yamaha flush connector instead of the original one due to ease of use and quality. 6. cables going from bars to engine bay need protection where the enter the engine bay. I noticed mine were rubbed through and I am expecting a shorter service life now they have been exposed. 7. I puchased some thin rubber that has adhesive on one side to put between the bonnet and the hull where the two sections rub on the sides. 8. I did a air intake mod using a safari snorkle off a old Land Rover discovery I purchased for 50 dollars. it has mount points in the perfect position and a profile that fits nicely whilst having the volume to supply enough air. I cut the hole in the bonnet to suit the pipe and use apoxy in a large syringe to apply neatly around where the pipe located and on the pipe, and assembled tightening the two bolts on the cross brace to the pipe. There are photos in another post titled airbox mod.